Tuesday 28/8
Buojdes
Horizontal distance: | 17 km |
Vertical distance: | +560 m, -100 m, +100 m, -200 m, +180 m, -540 m |
Time: | 6 h |
Lunch break: | 1 h 15 min |
Dinner: | – |
Night accommodation: | – |
Stage classification: | Medium |
It was rather chilly at first, so I set a good tempo as I walked along the northbound trail; the weather was improving all the time, but whenever the forest opened up I was subjected to winds which kept things cool. On a small patch beside a small brook shortly after Holmbom's spring there was a tent, and I surprised one of its occupants by suddenly appearing on the path. Being well trodden said path – which is frequently complemented by duckboards over mires in these parts – made for easy walking, and I covered the distance to the Slihtajåhkå bridge in short fashion.
There I found a few reindeer, and despite my efforts to approach slowly and cautiously one of them was so absorbed by its grazing that it did not discover my presence until I was pretty close. It was so startled that it froze for several seconds, but then it made a frantic attempt at fleeing without looking where it was going – with the effect that it tried to climb a tree, failed, and fell down with half a somersault, but it got up immediately and did not seem hurt. I then crossed the bridge, entering Padjelanta National Park a hundred meters thereafter, and after looking at the vast open expanse of upper Tarradalen for a while I followed a footpath upwards along the park border.
Upon entering the forest I came upon another, older and fainter path which I could follow for a while before I lost it, but then I found another, clearer one – and lost it. It did not matter much as the forest was not particularly dense, and after a short portion of dwarf birch shrubs the trees ended. I now had a very nice view of the valley below, and turning my gaze up the slope I decided to follow the small ravine formed by the tributary brook that comes from Buokkek rather than entering Slihtavágge proper.
I did so, passing a few places where some care needed to be taken, and while I was climbing I also noted something that looked like rain to the north, where there were also more clouds than where I was. Having reached the saddle between Buokkek and the intermediate rise between that mountain and Slihtavárre – or some distance above it – I sat down at 11:15 behind a large rock which offered full protection from the keen wind, bringing out my midday meal with a great outlook over the curiously confined lake Buojdes.
The clouds that still hung over the higher peaks were gradually lifting, even though I observed a few snowflakes sailing in on the wind. I remained in the shelter of the rock for a long time, just looking at the beautiful land before me. Eventually I got up, leaving my pack behind and starting off on a short walk to the summit of Buokkek, following the eastern edge at first. When the wide areas of Badjelánnda came into view I revised my earlier interpretation of the northern "rain", changing it to "haze" instead; more low clouds were moving into the little pass of Bajep Buojdes close by. I went over the top itself on my way back, coming down west of my little campsite, which I had to locate from an unfamiliar direction.
More clouds had appeared in the sky, but they were all high and of the fair-weather type. I picked up the pack and then departed, following the length of the uneven ridge to the top of Slihtavárre, which offered nice panorama views in all directions. From there I turned down towards Slihtavágge, walking on nice grassland and feeling warm despite the wind. I crossed upper Slihtajåhkå easily above a larger pool, after which I went up the slope on the other side at an angle, rounding the steeper part. It was getting less stony all the while, and when I was nearing the crest the sun passed into a cloud and the wind subsided. I never went up onto the actual summit, instead passing south of it and then starting to descend into the next dell. Getting across its central stream was a very easy affair just below a tarn, and then I went outwards to a weakly defined edge overlooking Tarradalen.
I followed this edge in on-and-off sunlight; now veils had started stretching across the sky behind the cumuli. After a while the terrain changed to more up-and-down and the low vegetation increased in size and complexity. I wound my way to the brink of Såmmárgårsså, from where I traced a very faint... well, trace down through the woodland; the slope was sheer and going was difficult, especially due to the ubiquitous grass which offered little in the way of friction. I had a slip or two, but mostly the descent went well, and when the inclination grew less I found my own way, passing across the slope into a region of more shrubs and the like. A suddenly appearing precipice of the smaller variety posed some minor problems, but soon I emerged onto a mire, and shortly thereafter I reached the "camping ground" just beside the cottage at 15:15.
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